Whether you moor your boat or store it on a trailer it is vital that you give your boat the proper lay up at the end of your season. The term “winterizing” refers to the procedure taken to prepare your motor or vessel for long term storage. This article is intended to give you some facts and tips to winterize your boat. If you are not comfortable completing any of the steps described in this article yourself then call your local service shop and have the experts do it for you. $300 in the fall is far better than costly fixes in the spring.
The first step is to identify exactly what engine type you have and what (if any) boat systems have to be winterized along with the motor.
Fuel Systems
Today’s gasoline is terrible. The 87 octane fuel that you pump into your tank will break down and become 85 octane after sitting for as little as one month. Even the Ethanol free premium gas will break down. The gradual degradation of the fuel can also create a varnish type of substance from forming on the walls of your tank as well as the fuel pump, carburetor float bowl or vapour separator tank. This varnish can solidify and flake off causing blockages in your fuel system and eventually lead to a running issue. Use a fuel stabilizer/conditioner to keep your fuel fresh though the winter as well as prevent phase separation which can occur with ethanol fuels.
Stabilizer is sold at any marine store and is a simple additive that you pour directly into your fuel tank. It can help keep your fuel fresh for up to one year.
Fogging Motors
The purpose of fogging a motor is to provide a protective film of oil over the inner surfaces of the intake manifold, cylinders, and exhaust system. Without fogging, condensation can accumulate over the winter leading to rust.
First you must determine what type of motor you have as each one has a slightly different procedure to fog it.
How to fog a carbureted outboard motor: Usually there is a way to access the intake side of the carbs. While running the motor at a high idle (1500-2000 RPM) spray fogging oil down the throat of the carb or carbs if the motor is equipped with multiples. The engine should slow and stumble while smoke billows out the exhaust. Continue to spray the fogging oil until the motor stalls out completely. Sometimes it is necessary to close the choke valve at the last moment to stall the motor but usually the oil does it. Old timers tended to just remove the spark plugs and fill the cylinders with fogging oil, but fogging the motor this way ensures that there is an oil film over the intake plenum, cylinders, and exhaust system. If your carbs have drain plugs on the float bowls it is advisable to remove them and drain the fuel when you are done.
How to fog a fuel injected outboard motor: The modern four-stroke fuel injected motors also require fogging and the procedure to do so is almost the same as a carbureted motor, however because of the positioning of fuel injectors above the intake valves there is the possibility of clogging fuel injectors if you simply spray fogging oil down the intake. Instead most shops have a dedicated portable fuel tank with a storage cocktail usually consisting of stabilized fresh gas, fogging oil, and sometimes a small amount of two stroke motor oil. Yamaha has developed an easy to use product called EFI Storage Fogging Oil that is simply added to a 12L tank of fresh gas to create an effective storage cocktail for anyone to safely use on a fuel injected motor. Now the question of how to get that portable tank of fuel through the motor that is directly connected to the boat’s integrated fuel tank. The easiest way to do this is to locate the motors on board fuel filter. There will be two hoses on the filter head – one in and one out. If you can’t figure out which is which simply follow the hoses – one will head to the front of the motor and out with the rest of the rigging (control cables, battery cables, etc). That will be your input line. Remove it from the fuel filter (usually just affixed by a hose clamp), and then connect your portable tanks fuel line in its place. The motor will now draw fuel from the portable tank. Run the motor for 15 minutes or until you can smell the oil in the exhaust. You won’t see much smoke but a little bit may be present. While you’ve made 12L of storage mix you truly only will use about a litre for a single outboard. The remainder can be dumped into the boat’s fuel tank. It is also a good idea to remove the water separating fuel filter (if equipped) that is on the boat and fill it with the storage mix as well. Don’t forget to disconnect the portable tank from the motors fuel filter and re-connect the original fuel line using an appropriate hose clamp to prevent it from pulling off
How to fog a carbureted inboard or sterndrive motor: While a carbureted outboard motor may be a little difficult to access the carb intake, the majority of marine engines out there have incredibly easy access to the carb. Usually covered by a flame arrestor (not to be confused with an air filter). The flame arrestor is normally just bolted onto the top of the carb via a stud and a single lock nut. Remove the flame arrestor and voila you’re staring down the throat of the carb. Run the motor at a fast idle (1500-2000 RPM) and spray the fogging oil down the throats going back and forth evenly from side to side. The motor should smoke and stumble and eventually stall right out… sometimes you’ll need to close the choke valve at the last moment to stall it completely.
How to fog a fuel injected inboard or sterndrive motor: The easiest way to do this is to locate the motors on board fuel filter. There will be a hose running from that filter directly forward to the boats integrated fuel tank. Disconnect this hose (normally affixed with a hose clamp) and plug in the line from your portable tank with your storage mixture. The motor will now draw fuel from the portable tank. Run the motor for 15 minutes to allow the mixture to run though the entire fuel system. Disconnect the fuel line from the filter and reconnect the original line. Be sure the use an appropriate hose clamp for this connection. Dump the remaining storage mix into the boats fuel tank.
Draining water from the motors
Unlike an outboard motor the inboard will hold water. That water could freeze and damage the cooling passages of your motor. In a worst case scenario, the motor will have to be completely replaced. First you must determine if you have fresh water cooling – AKA closed cooling - or raw water cooling. If you do not know how to identify your cooling type then call your local boat shop and have them winterize your boat. This step, if done improperly, could destroy your motor.
Fresh water cooled motor: Drain the seawater pump by removing the two hoses attached. Drain the heat exchanger by removing the end caps. Drain the exhaust manifolds by removing the drain plugs located either in the centre bottom or back end. In what’s known as a “full closed cooling system” the antifreeze runs through the exhaust manifolds and you drain the water from the riser elbows instead. After water has drained from the manifolds use a screw driver or pen to clear the drain hole and make sure there’s no water left in there – many times rust can flake off the inner surface of the manifold and clog the hole giving a false indication of it being empty.
Raw water cooled motor: Same steps as above (minus the heat exchanger that won’t exist on a raw water cooled engine) but you’ll also need to locate and remove the drain plugs on either side of the engine block (v6 and v8 engines – only one on a 4 cylinder) as well as remove the coolant hose off the circulation pump to drain the intake manifold and water pump
Some motors may also have an oil cooling along the raw water intake hose. That too may be drained simply by removing the hose. If the boat is left in the water make sure all seacocks are closed and sea-strainers if equipped are drained.
Winterizing Boat Systems
In addition to your motor(s), larger boats have full house systems that also require winterizing. This is where potable antifreeze is your best friend. For the purposes of this article I will only be describing the simplest method of winterizing the most common systems found in boats from 20-35 feet in length.
Fresh water systems – first run a tap until tank is fairly empty, then dump potable antifreeze down the filler neck for your fresh water tank. Run all the taps in both the hot and cold positions until antifreeze runs out.
Head – Have your holding tank drained at a pump out facility. Locate the raw water feed line for your toilet – usually attached to a thru hull fitting. Remove the line and place into a jug of potable antifreeze. Flush toilet until potable antifreeze comes out into bowl. Continue to flush toilet to get antifreeze into holding tank. Dump potable antifreeze down the deck pump out
Wash down pumps – the feed hose will be attached to a thru-hull fitting. Remove the hose and place it in a jug of potable antifreeze. Run the hose until antifreeze comes out
Fish boxes – dump in potable antifreeze and run the fish box pumps until antifreeze comes out
Live wells – the live well feed pump will be attached to a thru hull fitting. Remove from fitting and place in a jug of potable antifreeze. Run live well pump until antifreeze comes out
Batteries
Batteries should be removed from the boat and stored in a warm, dry location. Batteries do not like the cold. Ideally they should be placed on a trickle charger to not only keep them warm but keep the voltage topped up.
Drain Plugs
If the boat is being stored on land, remove the drain plug from the hull and leave the boat with the bow high. If your boat is stored outdoors this is an absolute must. It does not matter how many covers or tarps you’ve used, water WILL find its way in and if it can’t drain then it will accumulate. Inspect the boat periodically for signs of water accumulation, mould or mildew
We hope this article will help guide you through your annual winterizing. If you are uncomfortable with any of the procedures described above please call our service department at 604-273-7544 to book your winterizing appointment with our factory trained technicians.
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